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Aug 16th, 2010| This video tech tip describes how to rig an autoblock friction hitch as a backup in a rappel system. We often use this system to increase our margin of safety when rappelling. The backup gives us some extra peace of mind anytime the rope is difficult to hold onto or if there is a chance we could accidentally let go of the rope while descending. For example, this system is especially useful if there is potential for rockfall or icefall, if the ropes are icy and/or wet, if it is very windy, or if we simply want to stop and take a photo while rappelling down.
Jul
25
During 4 beautiful days last week, the Peak Mountain Guides 2010 Mt. Rainier Team made a strong attempt of the Emmons Glacier Route. Despite not making it to the summit, Brian, John, Gideon, and Matt learned a great deal about mountaineering and teamwork while experiencing the magnificence of Mt. Rainier. The weather and snow conditions were absolutely perfect for the duration of the trip, making for great views and terrific photo opportunities. A few photos are attached below. The good weather and snow conditions also allowed everyone to get ample practice with mountaineering skills like kicking steps in snow, ice axe self belay, ice axe self arrest, plunge stepping and glissading for descending, rope set-up with prusiks, glacier rope-team travel, alpine camping, Leave No Trace principles for an alpine environment, and other associated skills. A few participants came to the program with little previous mountaineering experience so the educational components of the trip really helped them understand and learn the important fundamentals.
The team made two camps during the ascent, the first in Glacier Basin and the second at Camp Schurman. On the summit attempt from Camp Schurman the team climbed about 1000′ onto The Corridor, a large passageway on the Emmons Glacier, before turning around due to fatigue and reports of high wind above. It was a very good effort by everyone! As famously stated by the reputable mountaineer Ed Viesturs, “the summit is optional, getting down is mandatory”. Following this good advice, the group made a safe descent back to Camp Schurman and down to the car at the trailhead below.
Brian and John, with Brian's school flag, at our high point.
May
18
Peak Mountain Guides staff member Angela Hawse recently passed her final guides’ exam to gain certification in all AMGA disciplines: Rock, Alpine, and Ski Mountaineering. She is one of only 7 female guides in the US to have completed all three AMGA exams! This gives her the highly regarded IFMGA international license for mountain guides, which is the highest level of guide certification as recognized by the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations, the international governing body on mountain guiding. This is a truly commendable achievement and it demonstrates Angela’s unique talent as a mountain guide. Way to go Angela!
Here is a video that Angela created during her final exam, the ski mountaineering guide’s exam, which she just took in the Chugach Range of Alaska.
May
12
We have space available on several Introduction to Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing Courses in Colorado this June. The course dates are June 5-6 and June 25-26. Each course currently has one participant enrolled and there is space for up to 2 additional participants. Each course will be taught by one of Peak Mountain Guides’ AMGA certified rock climbing guides.
The course is designed for climbers who are new to traditional rock climbing and multi-pitch climbing. During the two day course participants will learn techniques for efficient crack and face climbing, protection placement and removal, anchor building using the SRENA acronym, belay station management and different belaying methods, and rope systems for multi-pitch climbing. Commonly the second day of the course is spent tackling one of the classic multi-pitch rock climbs in Eldorado Canyon State Park or in the Boulder Flatirons.
The cost is $395 per person for 2 people or $295 per person for 3 people.
Here is short video of course participant Larry A. from Michigan, during one of our 2009 courses, tackling the crux of “Swanson’s Arete”, a 5 pitch climb in Eldorado Canyon. The completion of this climb was a personal best for Larry, and a highlight of his climbing career.
Eldorado Canyon and the Boulder Flatirons are just 45 minutes from the Denver International Airport, making this a terrific destination for a quick weekend climbing getaway!
Feel free to contact us at 970-318-1011 or at info@peakmountainguides.com for more information. You can also view our Colorado Rock Climbing webpage for more information.
May
10
Petzl has just released a new DVD titled “All Access” that is comprised of 10 short climbing films. The proceeds from the sale of the DVD, which is reasonably priced at just $10, go directly to the Access Fund for their Land Conservation Campaign. Petzl America coverered the production cost of these films and the filmakers and athletes donated their time for this good cause. If you would like to show your support for the Access Fund you can purchase the DVD at the Access Fund Store.
Here is short trailer of the All Access DVD:
Apr
13
The fourth day of the 2010 Alaska Ski Mountaineering Course dawned clear and sunny. We were scheduled to have a helicopter bump to a distance peak again, so we were excited to wake up to perfect flying conditions. We made our way to the Valdez Heli Ski Guides Base and prepped our gear for the sure-to-be-beautiful flight in.
Andrew & JP getting excited for the heli ride to our planned ski descent
Apr
12
JP, Andrew, and I arrived in Alaska to fresh snow, good snow stability reports, and a forecast calling for clearing skies. The conditions were looking good for our Alaska Ski Mountaineering Course and everyone was ready for an exciting week. We would soon discover that the excellent snow conditions, along with JP and Andrew’s enthusiasm for learning, would allow us to practice a tremendous amount of ski mountaineering skills while accomplishing some absolutely incredible ski descents.
The following video clip gives you a glimpse of some of the beautiful terrain we worked in during the course. If you click on the link “read the rest of this entry” below the video you can read a narrative of this outstanding trip along with some great photos and videos.
Mar
12
Due to the winding nature of alpine routes we commonly carry a multitude of longer slings to reduce rope drag and to prevent the rope from binding on horns, flakes, or loose rock. Our favorite way to carry these slings is as “alpine quickdraws”. The alpine quickdraw is a shoulder length sling that has been shortened to be carried as a quickdraw on your harness. It’s a very efficient way to manage loose slings, and it gives you the choice to use the sling in the shortened configuration or as a true shoulder length runner. Check out the video below to see how to rig an alpine quickdraw.
Mar
11
I have had the pleasure of using the Patagonia Nano Puff Pullover in my layering system this winter. After using it extensively for backcountry skiing and ice climbing in a variety of conditions, I am giving this garment a rating of 4.5/5 stars for its incredible versatility, minimal weight, and thoughtful design. In the following post I’ll describe the merits of this fine piece and offer my opinion on its ideal uses.
The Patagonia Nano Puff Pullover. Both men's and women's shown.
Mar
7
Yesterday Tracy L. and I climbed the classic San Juan ice route, Whorehouse Hoses. This climb consists of two outstanding pitches of ice as well as several pitches of snow climbing, making it a great all-around alpine outing. The forecast called for warm, above-freezing daytime temperatures so we planned to leave the car at 7:30 am and be finished by early afternoon – before the surrounding snow slopes would become unstable in the heat.
Tracy getting psyched to go climbing. Whorehouse Hoses can be seen as two blue streaks in the background.
