Chad Peele and I went out for a ski today to see if the snow is piling up after the recent storms. Sure enough, it is. . . in places! We found south and east aspects below treeline to have a shallow snow cover of about 30-50 cm. You can see an example of this shallow snowpack in the photo below (taken on the approach to Commodore Basin). In addition to being shallow it was also quite wind affected.
Summit Success on Ama Dablam! Here is the update we just received from Guide Chad Peele:
“After several days of resting in preparation for our summit attempt it was “go” time! We were all anxious to go for the summit as we had spent several days watching the first teams of climbers move onto the summit and now it was finally our turn. After a casual breakfast of coffee with two fried eggs and toast, we packed up and started our final push on Ama Dablam. We quickly bypassed Yak camp and moved onto the start of the fixed lines to our tents at Camp 1 where we would spend the night. The move from Camp 1 to our next camp was a going to be a big day, so after dinner and hot tea we buried ourselves into our sleeping bags for an early bedtime.
We just received another update from Chad and Dan on Ama Dablam. It sounds like they are progressing smoothly up the route! Here’s what we received from Chad:
“After settling into our luxurious Base Camp we rested and participated in a Puja ceremony. Puja is a rite that is performed on an auspicious day (determined by the Sherpas) once basecamp has been established and before any climbing on the mountain occurs. This is a very important ceremony for the Sherpa and we were very excited to help and participate.
This great video from Petzl highlights their new line of Quark, Nomic, and Ergo ice tools. It’s quite entertaining and it illustrates some of the exceptional qualities of the new Petzl Charlet tools. At Peak Mountain Guides we’re proud to be providing these tools to our clients this winter.