Peak Mountain Guides Blog

Guided Climb of Ancient Art Tower

admin — Thu, 16 May 2013 18:48:50 +0000

Perhaps there is no desert tower more famous than the wildly exposed, adrenaline inducing Ancient Art Tower near Moab, UT. The awe-inspiring corkscrew summit is a fascinating display of geology that is remarkable to behold, and even more remarkable to stand on! With a rating of 5.8+ AO, this tower can be enjoyed by intermediate climbers with a zest for adventure. Following are some photos from a recent climb by clients Gordon and Sonya W. and Guide Matt Wade.

Nearing the summit of Ancient Art Tower.

Ancient Art Tower is in the foreground with the distinctive “twisted” corkscrew summit.

The first pitch of the route includes a short section of face climbing that is rated 5.10. However, most climbers pull on the closely spaced bolts to bypass this section at a more moderate 5.8.

Pitch 2 ascends the “Stolen Chimney”, a ninety foot chimney that requires a variety of climbing techniques.

Gordon and Sonya enjoying the view from Party Ledge, just above the Stolen Chimney. Note the small dots in the lower righthand corner of the photo – these are climbers at the base of the route.

Gordon enjoying great face climbing on Pitch 3. This short pitch gains the final belay stance before the corkscrew summit.

From the final belay stance, the route goes across a narrow and exposed ledge called the “Sidewalk” to reach the corkscrew. From there, a few moves of 5.8+ gain the incredible summit.

Sonya on the summit!

Gordon on the summit! He is standing on the tippy-top!

A guided climb of Ancient Art Tower can be enjoyed by intermediate climbers with a zest for adventure. Due to the West facing aspect, the route can be climbed throughout the spring, summer, and fall climbing seasons. Call us at 970-325-7342 to experience this incredible climb!

Mt. Sneffels Ski Descent

admin — Wed, 08 May 2013 21:44:41 +0000

Guide Matt Wade and client Larry Hall just completed a ski descent of the Lavender Couloir on 14,150′ Mt. Sneffels. This is a classic ski mountaineering trip in the San Juans that includes an exciting roped climb to the summit, a chance to top out on a highly regarded “14′er”, and a beautiful ski descent that begins in a tight couloir and finishes on wide-open rolling terrain nearly 3000′ feet below. Larry sent us this note after the trip: “Thank you again for the great ski day on Mt. Sneffels. It will forever be on my list of top ski memories!”

Larry enjoying perfect turns during a ski descent of 14’150′ Mt. Sneffels.

Climbing the Lavender Couloir using boot crampons and ice axe.

With skis parked at the top of the Lavender Couloir, the team ropes up for several hundred feet of mixed rock and snow climbing to the summit.

Larry pauses for a photo on the exposed summit ridge. A panorama of high peaks extends in all directions.

On the summit of 14,150′ Mt. Sneffels! Way to go guys!

Larry skiing the classic Lavender Couloir on 14’150′ Mt. Sneffels.

Larry enjoying perfect turns in soft corn snow just below the Lavender Couloir.

Cruising through the rolling terrain of Yankee Boy Basin after 2800′ vertical feet of skiing from the summit.

We offer ski mountaineering courses and private ski descents throughout the spring season each year. Contact us to arrange a rewarding and memorable ski mountaineering trip in the San Juans!

Spring News from Peak Mountain Guides

admin — Mon, 15 Apr 2013 18:20:27 +0000

Our Spring 2013 Newsletter highlights some of the exciting climbing and skiing opportunities we’re offering this spring and summer. Click the image below to learn about our skill-building Intro to Alpine Climbing Course, our ski mountaineering trips in the iconic Sneffels Range, family rock climbing in Ouray, and exciting trips to world-class destinations like Mt. Rainier and Red Rocks. There is something for everyone and our first-rate staff of AMGA certified guides is ready to make your next trip educational, enjoyable, and filled with the utmost success.

Managing Risk in a Complex Snowpack

admin — Mon, 25 Feb 2013 18:19:42 +0000

Our lead guide Matt Wade recently authored an informative and interesting blog post for our long-time supporters, Backcountry Access. In the post, which follows the activities of a recent Peak Mountain Guides Level 2 Avalanche Course, Matt describes a process for managing avalanche risk in a complex snowpack. Click the link below to read the story.

Managing Risk in a Complex Snowpack

Article in Ouray Ice Festival Guide

admin — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 21:58:40 +0000

The 2013 Ouray Ice Festival Guide was just released and it includes a feature article on our lead guide, Matt Wade. It describes Wade’s path to a mountain life and some of the lessons he has learned along the way. ”To me, a lot of the value in the beauty and challenge of climbing is that I bring back gratitude for the experience and gratitude for my family and everyday life. This is what is special about it – it goes beyond just reaching the top of a mountain for the view, although the view is usually pretty good.” To read the whole article, click the image below.

2013 Ouray Ice Festival Guide

2012 Early Winter Newsletter

admin — Fri, 16 Nov 2012 19:35:38 +0000

We just sent our 2012 Early Winter Newsletter that showcases some exciting new developments at Peak Mountain Guides. Click the link below to learn about our new shop in Ouray, expanded ice climbing opportunities in the Ouray Ice Park and nearby backcountry, and our Gear Pick of the Season.

Rock Climbing in Red Rocks, NV

admin — Mon, 29 Oct 2012 15:22:46 +0000

We had a great trip to Red Rocks this year with lots of good climbing and lots of wonderful people! Larry was back for another year (his third in a row), John was back again too (his second in a row), and Victoria, Carson, Gordon, and Sonya joined us for their first trip to this great climbing destination. Thanks to everyone for so many terrific days on the rock! Following are a few photos from our climbs.

A celebratory summit high above the Red Rock desert.

Larry cruising the classic handcrack on pitch 2 of Olive Oil (5.7, 6 pitches).

Beatiful red and white striped sandstone in Red Rocks.

On the summit of the Rose Tower. Way to go Larry!

John pulling into the belay after climbing the first pitch of Crooked Crack (5.6, 2 pitches).

Nothing quite like sharing a rock climb with your favorite person.

Gordon and Sonya climbing high quality varnished sandstone.

Enjoying a hanging belay high above the forest.

Thanks everyone, see you again next year in Red Rocks!

Kids and Families Rock Ouray

admin — Sun, 12 Aug 2012 19:42:38 +0000

We have been enjoying lots of rock climbing with kids and families this summer. Our half-day introduction to rock climbing in Ouray has been very popular, especially since kids 10 and under climb free! Following are a few photos from some of our recent outings on Ouray’s rock climbing crags. Most of the images are from the Ouray Rotary Wall which is just 5 minutes from our office.

Kids love rock climbing!

Joe, age 10, enjoying his first day of rock climbing.

Rock climbing in Ouray is fun for the whole family. Even Mom and Dad can do it!

Ella getting ready for the climb.

And there she goes! Dad provides a secure belay.

In addition to learning to climb, our clients also learn how to hold the rope for each other: a true team building experience.

Working the crux of a 5.8 at the Rotary Wall.

Riley finding the way at the Pool Wall, just across the street from the Hot Springs Pool in Ouray.

We will be offering our family and kids rock climbing program in Ouray for the rest of the summer and into the fall. Call us at 970-325-7342 to schedule a rewarding and memorable experience for your family. And remember, kids 10 and under are free!

Video Tip: Checking Harness & Tie-in

admin — Fri, 27 Jul 2012 14:00:00 +0000

AMGA Certified Rock Guide Matt Wade describes how to use the BARK acronym to check your harness and tie-in point before climbing.

Entire Team Reaches Summit of Mt. Rainier

admin — Fri, 27 Jul 2012 02:35:00 +0000

We had a fantastic Mt. Rainier climb last week with every team member making it to the summit! We climbed the Disappointment Cleaver route from a high camp at Ingraham Flats. During our ascent we had excellent snow conditions, good weather, and our climbing teams implemented their newly learned climbing skills with precision and finesse. Following are a few photos from the trip.

On the summit of 14,410′ Mt. Rainier!

Our trip includes a complete basic mountaineering school that is conducted during the climb. Here guide Gabe Coler instructs the team in the art of kicking steps.

Ascending the Muir Snowfield on our way to Camp Muir. The summit of Mt. Rainier looms large in the distance.

Practicing self arrest at Camp Muir.

Establishing a high camp at Ingraham Flats in preparation for our summit attempt.

Practicing crevasse rescue in a real crevasse near camp. In the photo George is holding the weight of a real person (Chandler) while Brian builds an anchor. This is a very realistic training that helps everyone learn these important skills. Just to be safe there is a backup anchor too!

A view of our crevasse rescue training area at Ingraham Flats.

Brian and Chandler looking cheery at 4:30 am on top of the Disappointment Cleaver. In three hours they will be ecstatic on the summit.

Passing in front of Gibralter Rock on our way up the glacier. Time: 5:15 am.

As we neared the crater rim the sun rose above the horizon and we had a spectacular view of the valleys and clouds below. Time: 6:30 am.

A happy climbing team on the summit of Mt. Rainier! Way to go everyone! Time: 7:30 am.

After the climb we returned to camp to rest for the afternoon. Our celebratory dinner was highlighted by a beautiful display of evening alpenglow on the upper mountain.

We are already taking reservations for our 2013 Mt. Rainier Summit Climb. The dates are July 14-19 and we will be running the same small group trip (4 climbers and 2 AMGA certified guides) with an emphasis on skill development. We will climb the Disappointment Cleaver route again. Please contact us at 970-325-7342 or info@peakmountainguides.com to reserve your spot.

Thanks for reading!